Ok where were we...
Longest train journey so far took us from Mumbai to Jabalpur which fully deserves to receive my 'Worst City visited so far in India' award. Fortunately we were only there for one night. But one night was long enough for me to be bitten to pieces by bed bugs. And I still have the scars. Anyway, I think it was all worth it because the next day we headed for Bandhavgarh National Park for safari o'clock. And that was amazing.
There are lots of National Parks in India but we went for Bandhavgarh because Lonely Planet claimed it was virtually impossible not to spot tigers there. And for once, LP were definitely 100% right. Four tigers spotted in all and they were absolutely beautiful. So stealthy and majestic and lovely and cuddly looking. But still got butterflies when they came strolling right past our jeep! There wasn't much else wildlife in the park, its all geared up for tiger spotting but there were lots of nice birds and deer and all that sort of stuff. Some lovely peacocks too (it would seem I've got over the crippling peacock fear thats been haunting me since I was a tot)
Next was Varanasi. Now it took me a while to fully appreciate and get to like Varanasi but after a few days we both loved it. Thats not to say that its not a dirty smelly city with more hassle than you can shake a hassle stick at but it was all totally worth it. Sitting by the Ganges, Varanasi is considered by Hindus to be one of the most holy places in India. Thousands of pilgrims flock to the city every year, and it is held that dying in the city releases a person's soul from the cycle of reincarnation. The old city is flanked by ghats where people play cricket, bathe, do their laundry, chase water buffalo, cremate their dead. Everything goes on by the river!
Our guest house was down by the city's largest burning ghat, a 24 hour cremation site where hundreds of bodies are burnt daily. They're carried through the old city's winding alleyways on bamboo stretchers and laid to rest by the holy river. More than once we were nearly knocked down by these! The city was like nothing I've ever seen before, it's really hard to find the words to describe it. We took a couple of lovely boat rides down the Ganges, watched the cremation ceremonies, got hassled by a million different people to buy their silk. Its all go in Varanasi.
We ended up staying longer than planned as I got sick at the end of the first week. Nothing like a bit of Delhi belly to stop you in your tracks. Only lasted a few days but it took it out of me quite badly so we ended up staying just over two weeks in Varanasi. Much longer than anticipated and by the end we were itching to leave. But twas all worth it because we ended up in Nepal. Which is where our adventure is happening right now!
Friday, 21 May 2010
Tuesday, 4 May 2010
Everything since Hampi
Sorry for the delay! We've both been a bit rubbish with the internet so big apologies. Now I'll try to remember everything we've done in the last few weeks...
Hampi was absolutely amazing so it was a real shame to leave but it was just getting too hot and unbearable so we went back to Goa for a few more days of sun and sea and lazing. Decided to go up north this time and headed to Arambol. Two trains, four buses, a motorcycle taxi and a rickshaw later we finally arrived! (the fourth and final bus was probably the best bus I've ever been on! Had to sit in the cab on the gearbox! Tom was stuck in the back with all the thousands of locals they try to cram in...)
We were only planning on staying a couple of days there but it ended up being just over a week, the thought that it might be our last chance to top up our tans made leaving extra hard! We went to Anjuna Flea Market on the Wednesday which was hot and hassley but we got lots of shopping done. Tom did much better than I did, I'm a rubbish shopper if I'm not in the mood (and I definitely wasn't!) But there's only so much tea/spices/pairs of parachute pants/bangles you can see before it just gets boring! That sounded like a moan but it definitely wasn't, Anjuna was lovely. We found a lovely bar by the beach and spent the afternoon there watching the sunset and then watched an amazing band - sitar, flute, didgeridoo, drums. And Anjuna (and Arambol) is where all the aging hippies that I was expecting to see in Palolem seem to head to. Lots and lots of people definitely not acting their age! Lots of mutton dressed as lamb! But they all seem to be having the absolute time of their lives and I can't say I blame them, Goa would be the perfect place to grow old disgracefully!
We (begrudgingly) said goodbye to Goa and left for a few days in Mumbai to sort out loads of boring bits and pieces. Although I can't say we were sad to say goodbye to some of the Arambol wildlife - snakes in restaurants, a praying mantis climbing up my chair, rats in our room...Anyway, back to Mumbai. Walking up the road past a McDonalds on our first morning prompted a Western day. Best. Day. Ever. Well it wasn't really, but we were so fed up of Mumbai that two McDonalds and a Bollywood movie with popcorn were just what the doctor ordered.
Wow lots and lots has happened since Hampi, I might have to leave the rest for another day. Still to come:
...Jabalpur (the worst city in India?)
...Bandhavgarh National Park (Tiger Mountain)
...Varanasi (the most hassley city in India?)
Stay tuned! (I won't make you wait so long for an update next time I promise)
Hampi was absolutely amazing so it was a real shame to leave but it was just getting too hot and unbearable so we went back to Goa for a few more days of sun and sea and lazing. Decided to go up north this time and headed to Arambol. Two trains, four buses, a motorcycle taxi and a rickshaw later we finally arrived! (the fourth and final bus was probably the best bus I've ever been on! Had to sit in the cab on the gearbox! Tom was stuck in the back with all the thousands of locals they try to cram in...)
We were only planning on staying a couple of days there but it ended up being just over a week, the thought that it might be our last chance to top up our tans made leaving extra hard! We went to Anjuna Flea Market on the Wednesday which was hot and hassley but we got lots of shopping done. Tom did much better than I did, I'm a rubbish shopper if I'm not in the mood (and I definitely wasn't!) But there's only so much tea/spices/pairs of parachute pants/bangles you can see before it just gets boring! That sounded like a moan but it definitely wasn't, Anjuna was lovely. We found a lovely bar by the beach and spent the afternoon there watching the sunset and then watched an amazing band - sitar, flute, didgeridoo, drums. And Anjuna (and Arambol) is where all the aging hippies that I was expecting to see in Palolem seem to head to. Lots and lots of people definitely not acting their age! Lots of mutton dressed as lamb! But they all seem to be having the absolute time of their lives and I can't say I blame them, Goa would be the perfect place to grow old disgracefully!
We (begrudgingly) said goodbye to Goa and left for a few days in Mumbai to sort out loads of boring bits and pieces. Although I can't say we were sad to say goodbye to some of the Arambol wildlife - snakes in restaurants, a praying mantis climbing up my chair, rats in our room...Anyway, back to Mumbai. Walking up the road past a McDonalds on our first morning prompted a Western day. Best. Day. Ever. Well it wasn't really, but we were so fed up of Mumbai that two McDonalds and a Bollywood movie with popcorn were just what the doctor ordered.
Wow lots and lots has happened since Hampi, I might have to leave the rest for another day. Still to come:
...Jabalpur (the worst city in India?)
...Bandhavgarh National Park (Tiger Mountain)
...Varanasi (the most hassley city in India?)
Stay tuned! (I won't make you wait so long for an update next time I promise)
Thursday, 8 April 2010
Hot hot Hampi
Hello from Hampi!
We left Goa on Tuesday (very sad to leave) and have made it to the magical little place of Hampi. Once one of the largest Hindu empires in India, it was ransacked and raided in the late sixteenth century and is now the bizarre ruinous eastern Pompeii. History lesson over.
We had a lovely place to stay for the first couple of nights but it was the other side of the river to the main bazaar and, especially because its low season at the moment, we felt pretty out of it. So over the river we trundled this morning and feel much more in the middle of it now.
Best way to get around is by scooter (first scooter experience - its taken me two days but I really like it now!) so Tom's been driving me round like a good little taxi man, while I cling onto him for dear life (remember the crazy Mumbai driving - well the whole of India need to take a few lessons in safe/courteous/sensible driving. And take a look at the Highway Code) Don't panic, he's brill I'm in safe hands.
So we've been trundling round the various ruins, melting in the heat somewhat but really enjoying all the different things to see. Yesterday was probs the best day we've had here so far, mainly because I got a smooch from a gorgeous elephant called Lakshmi! She lives in the temple in Hampi Bazaar and you pop ten rupes in her trunk (which she gives to her boss man) and then she'll 'bless' you - pops her trunk on your head and even waits and smiles for the camera! Tomorrow morning we're going to see her have her bath down by the river.
We're only staying here for another couple of days, the heat is just too much (defs pushing 40 degrees) but the whole place is just such a bizarre beautiful place that I'm so glad we came. The scenery and the whole landscape just literally takes your breath away.
I've uploaded some photos on Faceyb but, again, they just don't do this place justice.
Back to Goa on Saturday, will speak to you from there xx
We left Goa on Tuesday (very sad to leave) and have made it to the magical little place of Hampi. Once one of the largest Hindu empires in India, it was ransacked and raided in the late sixteenth century and is now the bizarre ruinous eastern Pompeii. History lesson over.
We had a lovely place to stay for the first couple of nights but it was the other side of the river to the main bazaar and, especially because its low season at the moment, we felt pretty out of it. So over the river we trundled this morning and feel much more in the middle of it now.
Best way to get around is by scooter (first scooter experience - its taken me two days but I really like it now!) so Tom's been driving me round like a good little taxi man, while I cling onto him for dear life (remember the crazy Mumbai driving - well the whole of India need to take a few lessons in safe/courteous/sensible driving. And take a look at the Highway Code) Don't panic, he's brill I'm in safe hands.
So we've been trundling round the various ruins, melting in the heat somewhat but really enjoying all the different things to see. Yesterday was probs the best day we've had here so far, mainly because I got a smooch from a gorgeous elephant called Lakshmi! She lives in the temple in Hampi Bazaar and you pop ten rupes in her trunk (which she gives to her boss man) and then she'll 'bless' you - pops her trunk on your head and even waits and smiles for the camera! Tomorrow morning we're going to see her have her bath down by the river.
We're only staying here for another couple of days, the heat is just too much (defs pushing 40 degrees) but the whole place is just such a bizarre beautiful place that I'm so glad we came. The scenery and the whole landscape just literally takes your breath away.
I've uploaded some photos on Faceyb but, again, they just don't do this place justice.
Back to Goa on Saturday, will speak to you from there xx
Wednesday, 31 March 2010
Much the same
Not much to report I'm afraid, tis all much the same. Day 9 (?) in Palolem, have managed to get into quite a nice little routine:
11ish wake up
12ish breakfast (current favourite is a massive bowl of curd with banana and honey)
Then a few hours of topping up the tan while having a good old read (book number 3) and intermitent swimming.
Lunch is getting later and later, normally about 4 these days. Long lunch with lots of card playing; Tom and I have got a good Rummie tournament going on at the moment (I'm winning) and we're normally joined by a couple of people that work at the bar, Lavinia and Teju. Although Teju has left now and we haven't seen Lavinia for a couple of days. Anyway.
Another little sun bathe in the much more bearable late afternoon heat, maybe a swim, maybe a read. My tan is pretty lovely at the moment.
We'll then play a few more games of cards, maybe a nice gin and lime soda in the hammock.
Then dins. All the places along the beach pretty much serve the same grub (Indian/Goan/Chinese/Thai/Italian/Tibetan/Continental) (very sketchy spelling in most of the menus) but we've found a couple of favourite places. It's getting to dinner time now my tummy is a-rumbling.
After dinner we'll have a paddle in the sea and then home for a few more games of me beating Tommy at Rummie.
And thats it. The same again tomorrow.
You'd think we'd be getting bored of it by now...Ha, not likely.
11ish wake up
12ish breakfast (current favourite is a massive bowl of curd with banana and honey)
Then a few hours of topping up the tan while having a good old read (book number 3) and intermitent swimming.
Lunch is getting later and later, normally about 4 these days. Long lunch with lots of card playing; Tom and I have got a good Rummie tournament going on at the moment (I'm winning) and we're normally joined by a couple of people that work at the bar, Lavinia and Teju. Although Teju has left now and we haven't seen Lavinia for a couple of days. Anyway.
Another little sun bathe in the much more bearable late afternoon heat, maybe a swim, maybe a read. My tan is pretty lovely at the moment.
We'll then play a few more games of cards, maybe a nice gin and lime soda in the hammock.
Then dins. All the places along the beach pretty much serve the same grub (Indian/Goan/Chinese/Thai/Italian/Tibetan/Continental) (very sketchy spelling in most of the menus) but we've found a couple of favourite places. It's getting to dinner time now my tummy is a-rumbling.
After dinner we'll have a paddle in the sea and then home for a few more games of me beating Tommy at Rummie.
And thats it. The same again tomorrow.
You'd think we'd be getting bored of it by now...Ha, not likely.
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Quick pics
Just a quick one - I'm out doing some shopping (bag, anklet 300 rs done) and thought I'd pop in to upload a sneaky couple of pictures. They do not do this place justice, but here's just a little taste of where home is for the next few days...
Thursday, 25 March 2010
I think Palolem may be my paradise
This is going to be a much shorter and less rambly post than the other day (apologies for that) We're now in Goa. And I think I may stay here forever.
Arrived on Monday abour midday after a twelve hour train journey. Which I actually really enjoyed (thought it was all going to be a bit of a nightmare). We both got top bunks so slept with our bags under our heads which wasn't totally comfortable but we were both so knackered from trundling around Mumbai all day that we slept pretty well. Then when the sun came up it was lovely to watch the world go by.
So arrived in Madgao train station feeling hot and hungry and ready for the beach. Taxi ride to Palolem was...scary! But they do seem to know what they're doing these crazy drivers. Arrived to a swarm of Indians trying to get us to stay at their huts and trundled up and down the beach for a good half an hour trying to find a cheapy nice one and eventually came across a lovely place on the beach with a little veranda-ish thing, hammock, swinging chair, bathroom, next to the bar. 300 rs a night which is less than a fiver between us. Lovely lovely lovely. I forgot my camera cable again (and haven't taken many photos since we got here) but will upload some soon I promise.
We've just spent the last few days lapping up the sunshine with a Kingfisher to hand. The food here is delicious, lots and lots of fresh fish is brought in daily so we're making the most of it. It's gorgeous.
I can't really describe how amazing and beautiful this place is, it really is a little bit of paradise I think. I want you to all come!
xxx
Arrived on Monday abour midday after a twelve hour train journey. Which I actually really enjoyed (thought it was all going to be a bit of a nightmare). We both got top bunks so slept with our bags under our heads which wasn't totally comfortable but we were both so knackered from trundling around Mumbai all day that we slept pretty well. Then when the sun came up it was lovely to watch the world go by.
So arrived in Madgao train station feeling hot and hungry and ready for the beach. Taxi ride to Palolem was...scary! But they do seem to know what they're doing these crazy drivers. Arrived to a swarm of Indians trying to get us to stay at their huts and trundled up and down the beach for a good half an hour trying to find a cheapy nice one and eventually came across a lovely place on the beach with a little veranda-ish thing, hammock, swinging chair, bathroom, next to the bar. 300 rs a night which is less than a fiver between us. Lovely lovely lovely. I forgot my camera cable again (and haven't taken many photos since we got here) but will upload some soon I promise.
We've just spent the last few days lapping up the sunshine with a Kingfisher to hand. The food here is delicious, lots and lots of fresh fish is brought in daily so we're making the most of it. It's gorgeous.
I can't really describe how amazing and beautiful this place is, it really is a little bit of paradise I think. I want you to all come!
xxx
Sunday, 21 March 2010
Mumbai Mumbai, crazy crazy Mumbai
Right then. It's day 4 and my oh my hello India. I can't even really remember what we've done these last few days so will have to check with super-organised journal writer Tom to make sure I get everything down.
First day. Ok well the flight was fine, watched a couple of George Clooney filmies, had a couple of (weeny) bottles of wine and a nice snooze. Well done BA. Also well done BA for not striking til this weekend. Very considerate of you. Ta.
Mental mental taxi ride from the airport to the hotel. I mean mental. Next taxi we get in I'm going to have to do a bit of videoing of the ride becaue I can't even begin to describe it. Horns a-blazing, swerving pedestrians, no such thing as lanes. Mental. But we arrived at our hotel safe and sound. Wowzers what a hotel that was. LUSH. The lovely people at Hotel Residency upgraded us to their new suites and it was literally the best hotel room I think I've ever been in. Mmm mmm mmm.
What next? We headed down to the Gateway of India (I forgot to bring my camera lead so I can't upload the photo. Next time) and saw the Taj hotel. Had a nice little wander round. I feel like a bit of a celeb in these parts, had lots of people whipping out their camera phones to take a picture of my lovely blonde hair. I think Tom thinks I'm imagining it but it defs happened. So wander wander wander round the Gateway, had a nice expensive beer in Leopold's and then found a place to stay for the next couple of nights. Back to our lovely hotel for a beautiful 12 hours sleep.
Geez I really can't remember what happened on day 2. That might've been the day we went to the museum. I think it was. Twas a very nice museum, right by our new hotel. Not as nice as original hotel but for 600 rupees we can't complain. And we get breakfast. Mmm. So museum was nice, what else? Oh yeh went to Chowpatty (sp?) beach, it's where all the richer peeps like to hang out. Very very nice. Had a baluddy good ice cream.
Ok yesterday we went to the markets, lovely walk around saw some dalmatian puppies! And some very sad cats. And lots of fruit, lots of everything really. Then had some more very expensive beer. It's not expensive, same as a Horse and Groom pint I reckon but comparatively it's pricey pricey. Spent about the same amount on beer on Friday night as we did on accomodation. Ha.
Sorry this is all getting a bit then we did this then we did that so I'll leave you with today's goings on: sleeper train to Goa tonigh. Yes! Mumbai's starting to get a tad tiring (hot hot hot) so very much looking forward to some beach fun.
Will update from the beach then. I'm trying not to get too braggy.
Lots of love xxx
First day. Ok well the flight was fine, watched a couple of George Clooney filmies, had a couple of (weeny) bottles of wine and a nice snooze. Well done BA. Also well done BA for not striking til this weekend. Very considerate of you. Ta.
Mental mental taxi ride from the airport to the hotel. I mean mental. Next taxi we get in I'm going to have to do a bit of videoing of the ride becaue I can't even begin to describe it. Horns a-blazing, swerving pedestrians, no such thing as lanes. Mental. But we arrived at our hotel safe and sound. Wowzers what a hotel that was. LUSH. The lovely people at Hotel Residency upgraded us to their new suites and it was literally the best hotel room I think I've ever been in. Mmm mmm mmm.
What next? We headed down to the Gateway of India (I forgot to bring my camera lead so I can't upload the photo. Next time) and saw the Taj hotel. Had a nice little wander round. I feel like a bit of a celeb in these parts, had lots of people whipping out their camera phones to take a picture of my lovely blonde hair. I think Tom thinks I'm imagining it but it defs happened. So wander wander wander round the Gateway, had a nice expensive beer in Leopold's and then found a place to stay for the next couple of nights. Back to our lovely hotel for a beautiful 12 hours sleep.
Geez I really can't remember what happened on day 2. That might've been the day we went to the museum. I think it was. Twas a very nice museum, right by our new hotel. Not as nice as original hotel but for 600 rupees we can't complain. And we get breakfast. Mmm. So museum was nice, what else? Oh yeh went to Chowpatty (sp?) beach, it's where all the richer peeps like to hang out. Very very nice. Had a baluddy good ice cream.
Ok yesterday we went to the markets, lovely walk around saw some dalmatian puppies! And some very sad cats. And lots of fruit, lots of everything really. Then had some more very expensive beer. It's not expensive, same as a Horse and Groom pint I reckon but comparatively it's pricey pricey. Spent about the same amount on beer on Friday night as we did on accomodation. Ha.
Sorry this is all getting a bit then we did this then we did that so I'll leave you with today's goings on: sleeper train to Goa tonigh. Yes! Mumbai's starting to get a tad tiring (hot hot hot) so very much looking forward to some beach fun.
Will update from the beach then. I'm trying not to get too braggy.
Lots of love xxx
Monday, 15 March 2010
Friday, 5 March 2010
Visa. Done.
Done! Yes. Large degree of hassle involved in actually getting it but that was mainly my fault for being a retard. Managed to get a restricted areas permit (Tom didn't) but apparently it doesn't matter anyway for where we want to go. And may be able to sort out going to Nepal when we get to Mumbai. So hurrah, successful day all round.
Successful two days really, managed to sort out malaria tablets yesterday (chloroquine and proguanil £18.99 for seven weeks worth. Done) and bank account mares. And flip flops arrived. Yes. So all the important things are done now then...
12 days! (eek)
Successful two days really, managed to sort out malaria tablets yesterday (chloroquine and proguanil £18.99 for seven weeks worth. Done) and bank account mares. And flip flops arrived. Yes. So all the important things are done now then...
12 days! (eek)
Thursday, 4 March 2010
Visa Hassle Day (which then turned out to be Ellen and Tom's Day of Fun)
Visas are a MASSIVE hassle. Confusing, unclear hassle. Slightly bricking it that we'd left it too late to post everything off and get it back in time we headed up to the Application Centre in Victoria yesterday at stupid o'clock to get it done. And have to go back in a couple of days to collect them. Hassle. (we didn't know that you couldn't get them on the same day, nothing is made clear to you vis a vis Visa hassle) Also hassley is that we need special permits to go to places we really want to go to. Ie Himachal Pradesh and Sikkim (Dharamsala, Shimla and Darjeeling pour example) Which Tom's miserable nit-picking lady told him was unlikely to happen because they're really tight on letting you in to these places without knowing your exact route, address while there, dates etc. Which obviously we don't because we know nothing. Hassle. Also unlikely to happen according to Mrs Cheeryface is being able to go to Nepal and then back into India, apparently you can't re-enter within two months of leaving. Which is not how we understood it. So maybe no Nepal. Massive hassle.
So you see, Indian Visas are a massive hassle.
But, after our little early morning jaunt we then had a whole day of fun (shopping) Having got to the Visa Centre just after 8 (opens at 8.30) we were out and done and dusted by 9. Shop-central. My card took a right old hammering, there'll be no money left for India at this rate.
Now added to my kit list:
So you see, Indian Visas are a massive hassle.
But, after our little early morning jaunt we then had a whole day of fun (shopping) Having got to the Visa Centre just after 8 (opens at 8.30) we were out and done and dusted by 9. Shop-central. My card took a right old hammering, there'll be no money left for India at this rate.
Now added to my kit list:
- Lovely denim shorts
- Bikini (and a very nice one too. Expensive though)
- Some more scarves (total: 3)
- Some more shorts
- A top (white) (probs a v bad idea)
- Pretty much everything else of any importance/necessity
Sunday, 21 February 2010
And so the countdown begins...
24 days to go. Give or take a few hours. YES!
Check list thus far:
6 very ugly passport photos
A lovely multi-purpose scarf
Pretty (fashion over comfort) sandals
Ugly (comfort over fashion) sandals
SPF 15 Vaseline
A sleeping bag (should it stay or should it go?)
A click-powered torch
Things to do:
A lot. Namely sort out Visa. Which is starting to stress me.
Check list thus far:
6 very ugly passport photos
A lovely multi-purpose scarf
Pretty (fashion over comfort) sandals
Ugly (comfort over fashion) sandals
SPF 15 Vaseline
A sleeping bag (should it stay or should it go?)
A click-powered torch
Things to do:
A lot. Namely sort out Visa. Which is starting to stress me.
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